Patagonia - Torres del Paine

Hari and I flew from BA down to El Calafate, a small town on the Argentine side of Patagonia. This town is a common starting point for trekkers who are interested in heading to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and the famous ¨W¨trek that leads to Torres del Paine in Chilean Patagonia. We spent a few days in El Calafate to see the Perito Moreno glacier and to prepare for our trek. Hari had been wanting to trek in Patagonia for years, he was especially interested in the "W" trail in Chile that leads to Torres del Paine. The trail itself takes 5 days to complete and is in the shape of a ¨W¨. It is lined by glacier capped mountains, crystal-clear blue lakes, and lush forests. This trail is very popular for trekkers, as it leads to the famous Torres del Paine sandstone mountains that hover 3000 meters above a lake. Unlike many other mountains in the area, they do not gradually ascend in a classic upside-down ¨V¨mountain shape - instead they shoot up out of the ground in 3 abrupt, spectacular points. The photos I had seen plastered throughout El Calafate blew me away, I could not wait to see them in person.

Before heading towards the trail, we stayed in El Calafate for a day to see the Perito Moreno glacier which we heard was a must. It did not disappoint...it is one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my life. The glacier itself covers 250 sq km, reaching nearly 60 meters high. As one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world, Perito Moreno moves a drastic 2 meters per day and these movements can easily be seen by eye. We arrived at the glacier and I was blown away at its size - of course I knew that 60 meters high is insane, but actually standing in front of it made it seem so much larger. The boats on the water near the glacier looked like ants. Within a few minutes of being at one of the lookout points along the water we witnessed our first calving, the breaking off of massive chunks of ice caused by the movement of the glacier. We always had warning that a calving was about to occur, as we could hear a crack in the ice as loud as thunder followed by pieces of the glacier as big as buildings crumbling into the water. These calvings happen about every 20-30 minutes. Some occur deep in the heart of the glacier and can only be heard, but when they happen along the shore the crowds at the lookout points go wild and try to quickly snap photos of the ice crashing into the water below. As the ice chunks hit the water they cause massive waves to dissipate to the shore line, it is really quite a show. We stayed at the glacier just watching and anxiously waiting for calvings for 4 hours, and neither of us were ever bored. We saw several calvings, one in particular was massive and Hari very excitedly caught the end of it on video. Like I said, it was one of the most beautiful and coolest things I have ever seen, so much more than I anticipated. It was an amazing afternoon, and the cherry on top - as we were heading back to El Calafate on our bus a rainbow formed over the glacier. Simply amazing.Now onto the trek. I guess you could say that we were a little bit unprepared for the weather. Having spent all of my trip in summer weather, I had only 2 long pants, shirts, and a fleece jacket. To this point, I had hardly used them but since we were now in the southern Andes, it was freezing. El Calafate is a tourist town, and since it is not exactly in a heavily trafficked area it is quite expensive. I picked up some gloves and a hat but skipped out on buying any other warm clothing - I figured that layering everything else remotely warm that I had with me would suffice. The 5-day "W" trek that leads to Torres del Paine does have some refugios along the way where you can sleep, but we wanted a true trekking experience so we decided to tough it out and camp. This meant that for the duration of our trek we would have to carry everything we needed on our backs - tent, sleeping bags/mats, clothes, and food. We rented the camping equipment and stocked up at the local supermarket on good trekking food: granola, energy bars, peanuts, instant soup packets, oatmeal, bread, cheese, apples, etc. We managed to fit all of our equipment into my large pack and Hari´s small backpack and were ready to go.

We took a bus to the Chilean border where we would go through customs and get to the starting point of the trek. I guess it slipped our minds that we were crossing a border and that you are often not allowed to bring fresh food from one country to another while Hari and I were stocking up at the supermarket. There were signs everywhere at the border stating that it was forbidden to bring any produce, or animal products/bi-products from Argentina into Chile. Oops, we had a bag of 14 apples, cheese, and salami in our big pack. At first we contemplated not declaring them but in the end our consciences told us to be honest on our customs forms. The result: all of our apples and salami were confiscated, but somehow the customs officer let the cheese go through. We were out about $10, no big deal, but this of course would mean that we would have to rush to another supermarket to replace the food we´d lost before we started our trek. Good thing we were honest, though...Sarah told us that when she flew into Chile from New Zealand that a guy on her flight had 2 apples in his backpack that he had forgotten about. He did not declare them, and was busted by customs officials and charged $100 per apple! Had Hari and I been busted, I would have had to cut my trip short, as the fine could have been thousands of dollars!

After the border incident, we made it to Chile and were ready to start our trek. We took a small boat across Lago Pehoe to the starting point of the trail and were already amazed at the scenery - we were surrounded by huge glacier capped mountains in every direction. We arrived at the camp late in the afternoon and would start trekking the next morning, so we pitched the tent and relaxed in the nice, warm refugio. The trail has refugios along the way, so even though we were camping we would luckily be able to defrost in the common areas of the refugios in the evening. We got to bed early, anticipating an early start for our first day of trekking. We woke up to the dreaded sound of rain on our tent. This was not a good sign. We put on all of our trekking gear and went outside to assess the situation - the rain was not that heavy, but if it held up all day we would inevitably be soaked. Being on a time schedule, we had no choice but to head out in the rain. Instead of packing up camp and taking all of our gear with us to the next campsite, we decided we would do the first part of the ¨W¨ as a day hike. We walked for 3.5 hours in the rain, so we were cold, wet, and pretty annoyed; however, when we reached Grey Glacier on Lago Grey we cheered up a bit - it´s pretty hard to be in a bad mood when you are standing in front of a brilliant, blue glacier. We snapped tons of photos, had our lunch, and headed back 3.5 hours to our camp. By the time we got there our socks and shoes were soaked through. We bolted to the refugio to warm up but knew in the back of our heads that there was no way our shoes would dry out overnight, so we´d have to wake up to wet shoes. Oh well, maybe the rain would stop and they´d dry as we were walking the next day...

The rain didn´t stop. Again we woke up to the sound of rain pouring down on our tent. We were not happy campers, but we tried to remind ourselves that we were in Patagonia and that things could be a lot worse. So we put on our wet shoes and headed out for another day hike, and luckily at this point the rain had slowed to a drizzle. While the surrounding views on the trail were beautiful, the trail itself was a wet, muddy mess. At some parts the mud was shin deep, so we had to try to find less traveled trails. Sometimes we were successful, sometimes we were not but our shoes were already soaking so a little mud wouldn´t hurt. This steep section of the trek went up the Valle Frances along a massive waterfall. Hari and I scrambled up the rocks and made the most of it - since we were already soaking wet from the knees down, we figured that we may as well have fun and slosh through the running glacier water...the water was freezing (obviously, it´s glacier water), but it is sparkling clean so at least our muddy shoes got a cleaning. On the top, we got some great photos of Hari faux hurling himself into the waterfall and on our descent, the clouds cleared and we saw our first hint of sunshine. The rest of the walk back to camp was dry, and the sight of the sun reflecting off the glaciers was incredible. The weather warmed up and our pants started to dry off, so things were looking up. The wind was so strong that I was able to lean my entire body weight into it and still be held up standing perfectly straight. In higher spirits, we got back to camp, hung out in the refugio, and hoped that the weather would hold up the next day.

On day 3 we did not wake up to the sound of rain on the tent, so we were excited to get up and get going. We got an early start to the next camp with the sunshine on our shoulders. This campsite was awesome, we could see the 3 Torres from our tent and the refugio was first-class - it had a really nice sitting area, bar, and wood stoves where we´d be able to set our (still) wet shoes in front of to dry. After our walk, we set up camp and relaxed in front of the nice, warm fire, as Hari wasn´t feeling too well. Being in the cold rain caused Hari to come down with a pretty bad cold, so when we woke up the next morning he didn´t have the energy to do a full day hike. Luckily despite the initial bad weather we kept a good pace and had a bit of extra time so Hari relaxed for most of the day and we just hiked around the area for a few hours. The next day we would complete the ¨W¨ and make it to the Torres, so we wanted to make sure Hari was well-rested and ready to go.

Thankfully we woke up on day 4 to a perfect day. There were no clouds in the sky and it was actually quite warm for Patagonia. We anxiously got ready and started our trek, which was the most physically challenging section of the trail. It was mostly uphill, but having the Torres in view made us keep our pace and we made it to the base of the Torres in great time. From the base you have to walk up a steep, rocky path for 30 minutes to reach the lake where the Torres begin. We raced up the trail and was breathless, the view was picture perfect. The Torres were 100x more beautiful in person than they were in all the photos I had seen. The sky was clear and the sun reflected off the blue-green lake. The lake is at 750 meters, and the Torres shoot up an additional 2000 meters into the sky. Hari and I were both speechless, we must have just stared at the perfect view for 15 minutes before we took one photo. Sitting in front of the Torres on this perfect day made it worth hiking in the rain for 2 days through muddy trails.

We sat for awhile, had lunch, and admired the views before we headed back to camp. As we made our way down the mountain, clouds started to roll in and we were very thankful that we made it to the top while the sun was still shining. We were both pretty quiet for the rest of the evening, as we were both reflecting on our adventure and the perfect views of the Torres. The next day we headed back to El Calafate where we indulged in a nice Italian dinner and a nice, hot shower at our Hospedaje. Patagonia was definitely a highlight of the trip for me, the air is clean and the whole area just feels so untouched. We flew back to Buenos Aires where we´d stay for one more day, then off to Mendoza.

Sweet As

New Zealand is beautiful. It is a place where on every turn in the road the scenery can take your breath away. It was a different kind of beauty then the sunny beaches and ocean I had been surrounded by for the last several months (not that I am complaining). NZ is truly gorgeous and an outdoor enthusiast and thrill seekers dream. I decided to focus most of my time in NZ on the south island which is known to be more beautiful with more outdoor activities to offer travelers.

I arrived in Christchurch which is a cute little town with a great weekend market that is very welcoming and brought a completely different vibe then Australia did for me. Much more chill, outdoor focused, and backpacker focused I thought. Mary and I had originally planned on renting a car and driving around the south island exploring it for ourselves. Since plans had changed I spent my first day in Christchurch checking hostel message boards and posting my own notes looking for people that wanted to roadtrip the south island with me. I also began looking into other options for travel which focused on the various groups hop on hop off backpacker buses that circled New Zealand. I decided to book a two week tour with the Stray bus because they focused on getting off the tourist beaten track giving travelers a more alternative, NZ cultural focused experience. Most of the travelers were a bit older then the 18 year olds high school grads that are usually drawn to the ´green f--- bus´(as it is lovingly referred to) backpacker bus. All the bus does is bring us from place to place and the accommodations we book and activities we do in each town is our choice. Luckily I ended up with a really great group of people who I stayed with almost my entire journey of the south island. I really loved my experiences in New Zealand and it remains one of my favorite countries of this trip.

After two days in Christchurch I boarded the orange Stray bus and we were off to Kaikoura where I took a beautiful hike all along the sea cliffs checking out the seals (got a little too close to one) and just enjoyed my first of many beautiful NZ days. The next day we drove up to Picton and took a boat trip around the Marlborough Sounds. We got an AMAZING dolphin show while on the boat, all the dolphins jumping, playing and swimming with the boat. Then it was too a local Scottish bar to catch some March Madness games. My other main focus during the trip was to catch as many college NCAA tournament games I could- specifically Villanova games. With a 21 hour time difference it was pretty challenging and required some bribes with bartenders, 9am games, and complaints from locals that wanted to watch something else on TV. If you have met me you would expect nothing less. Let me just say March Madness doesn´t have the same following in NZ as it does in the States. In Picton we had some interesting 70 to 80 yr old guy roommates in our dorm who announced, in advanced, that they all snore very badly and even offered us the extra earplugs they carry around for people staying in the same dorm as they are. Note- great earplugs are an essential backpacking item (thanks Snugs). That night to help us get some sleep we went to a local Irish bar the carried the best Guinness in NZ. I have do doubt that it was, even TJ, our resident Irish bloke, gave it the thumbs up.
The next day we were to change buses and met the core travel group that I hung with over the next week. My bus was filled with mostly English backpackers, a few Canadians, Team Sweden, and TJ. I was the token American on the bus and was reminded of it often. Our driver was B.P. which stands for British Petroleum because of a streaking incident through the BP gas station during his Stray driver initiation. He filled our long drives with hilarious stories as well as loads of New Zealand facts and history. He also used the phrase ´sweet as´all the time, as do all NZers. Basically ´sweet as´is used to say almost anything like- sure, OK, it was great, amazing time, let´s go. You can really just say it at the end of any sentence if you want.
Abel Tasmin was one of the most beautiful stops on my NZ journey. It is a gorgeous national park (one of many) set along the beach and lakes. We camped for two nights here, enjoying the nightly bonfires, huge Kiwi BBQ, fresh mussels from the sea, and the silence of being in the middle of paradise. During the day a few of us decided to do a beautiful 12 km hike through the Park to Anchorage Beach. Once on the beach we had a catamaran (Straycat) waiting for us to take us back to our campsite. On our journey back I saw my one and only penguin, more seals, and the impressive cliffs over the magical blue water. Sweet As.

Buenos Aires - Mary lands in South America

Before heading to Daintree and the Great Barrier Reef, we said our goodbyes to Brad and Esther and were not sure when we´d see them again...well as it turns out, we´d see them only about a week later. Hari and I both modified our travel plans for the coming months so we´d be able to spend more time together and with our changes we´d be flying out of Sydney to South America, so back to Brad and Esther´s apartment we went. We were only there for a day, but that gave us time to hang out some more, have yet another goodbye dinner, and say hasta luego for real this time...since they were back to work in Australia and we were off to South America, bumping into them again along the way would be extremely unlikely.

Hari and I hopped a cab and headed to the airport to catch our 14 hour long flight to Buenos Aires. We flew out of Sydney at 1pm on March 16th, and landed in Buenos Aires at 11am on March 16th. We crossed the International Date Line and magically gained an entire day. After some research in our Lonely Planet South America Books (Lonely Planet books are often referred to as the backpacker´s bible, everyone has it) we decided to stay in the San Telmo area of Buenos Aires - it is an older part of the city and therefore much less expensive than the chic Palermo area. We found a guesthouse on an old cobblestone road near a square that was lined with antique shops and restaurants and immediately hit the sack. The long flight was quite comfortable and painless, but we were both exhausted and spent our first 2 days in Buenos Aires sleeping and being totally lazy. Luckily, we were not in much of a time crunch and did not have to rush through Buenos Aires so we didn´t feel too guilty wasting 2 full days.

After adjusting to the time zone, we set out to explore the city. It had a very European feel and I quickly learned why so many people had told me that they could easily spend weeks just bumming around BA. We spent several entire afternoons just walking around and checking out the many plazas and squares. We also quickly became addicted to empanadas, which are available on literally every street corner. They are a delicious snack or meal, and they are extremely cheap, only about 50 cents per empanada. Buenos Aires certainly does not have any shortage of cafes, restaurants, or parrillas (steakhouses) - we had been told by friends who had traveled to BA that one of the highlights is the cheap steaks. Knowing that dinner does not even start until 10pm, we scoped out our neighborhood during the day and picked out a few places that we wanted to check out for dinner much later in the evening. We arrived at our first parrilla just after 10pm and it was still nearly empty, but we were too hungry to wait any longer and ordered a nice bottle of wine and 2 steaks. Everything was delicious, the steaks were excellent quality and cooked to perfection. While a dinner like this in New York City would cost at least $100 for 2 people, our meal cost us only about $40. Yes, this is a huge price difference, but I do have to say that I expected Argentina to be a little less expensive. I know that $40 for a nice steak dinner with wine is a deal, but keep in mind that we were coming from SE Asia where we were getting nice dinners for less than $8 for two people...BA is not the most backpacker-price friendly city in South America, but then again we were in one of the nicest, most developed cities in all of SA so we hoped things would be a bit cheaper in less popular cities.

After being in BA for just a day I got some great news - Britt, one of my closest friends from home, would also be in BA and I would get to spend a few days with her! This was a great surprise, I knew that she and her roommate, Kat, were planning a trip to BA but the last we had spoken we did not think that our dates would overlap. Due to me changing around my schedule, I ended up in South America almost a month ahead of schedule so it worked out that Britt and Kat were there at the same time. They had rented an apartment for a full week in Palermo, a really hip area in the northern part of the city. Thanks to craigslist they were able to find a nice 2-bedroom apartment to rent for a full week that ended up being much cheaper than staying in a hotel. Plus they had a full kitchen so they were able to stock up the fridge and cook some meals at home. They invited us up for drinks and dinner one evening so Hari and I hopped on the metro and made our way up to their area. I was most impressed with the metro in BA, it only costs about 30 cents a ride and is quite clean and consistent. It took us about 30 minutes to get up to Palermo and after a short walk through a pretty little park, we found the apartment. After being let in by the doorman we ran upstairs and Britt opened the front door and jumped into my arms. I had not seen her for about 8 months and was so excited to reunite in BA. She had the nicest engagement card and a bottle of wine waiting for us, and we started catching up right away. We were probably talking to each other a mile a minute, so much had happened and we didn´t even really know where to start. We talked for easily over an hour before realizing it was nearly 11pm and we should get going for dinner. We all headed toward a street near their apartment that had lots of restaurants and picked a parrilla. Throughout the whole dinner we just kept talking and talking and were so excited to be together.

Before we knew it, it was getting quite late so we all decided to meet up again the next day to do some sightseeing together and Hari and I headed back to San Telmo. The next morning we woke up a bit early because we wanted to go to the Japanese and Botanical Gardens before meeting up with Britt and Kat. Another metro ride later, we were at the parks and walked around for a few hours. The weather was beautiful, sunny and not too hot, and the gardens were huge and very well kept. They reminded me a little bit of strolling through Central Park with no particular mission except for enjoying the day. We took tons of photos and headed over to Palermo to meet up with the girls again. We wandered down the main street and eventually made our way to the Plaza San Martin where the United Buddy Bears Exhibition was set up for a few months - these life-size bears are painted by artists from all over the world to celebrate diversity and teach about other cultures. Each UN-recognized country gets a bear and an artist is selected to paint the bear any way he/she chooses - some of the bears were really beautiful and creative (especially Iraq, Cambodia, Egypt, and Moldova), while some were quite cliche and weird (for example, the US bear was the Statue of Liberty, and the Netherlands bear was just weird and random). The bears were set up in a huge circle in the plaza and tons of people walked around checking them out and taking photos with them. We all had a great time checking them out and taking silly photos with them. The afternoon started to come to an end so Britt and Kat headed back towards Palermo while Hari and I went back to San Telmo for pizza (Argentina actually has really good pizza).

The next day was Britt´s last day so I went up to her apartment to say goodbye to her and Kat. It was great to see them and an unexpected reunion. Our goodbye would only be temporary, though...Kat´s family is from Colombia which is my last stop in July before returning back to the US. Kat has family living in Bogota and goes back often so she and Britt are in the midst of planning to meet me and Hari there in early July for a few weeks, I´m so excited that I will be seeing them again for Part II of our South America journey together! I said my temporary goodbye to the girls and rushed back down to San Telmo, as Hari and I were going to a River Plate futbol game later in the afternoon. Through my travels I have become more and more of a futbol fan since it is the most popular sport everywhere in the world except the US and is always on in bars and restaurants. Hari and I had heard and read that Argentine futbol fans are by far the craziest so we had to see for ourselves. The 2 main teams in BA are River Plate and Boca Juniors. Boca Juniors are probably more well-known, but they were not in town while we were there so we had to see River Plate play instead. We took the metro to the train station and after literally running along side a moving train (Slumdog Millionaire style, Hari said I reminded him of Latika but unlike her I made it on the train after being pulled on by some locals!) we made it to the stadium. We had to walk for a good 15 minutes along the highway to get to the stadium, the whole time we were surrounded by fans covered in red, white, and black, who were singing and waving their jerseys, scarves, and flags in the air. We scalped some cheap tickets and got into the stadium in time to see the club teams celebrating as if their team had just won The World Cup - there were full marching bands, people painted head-to-toe, non-stop singing and dancing, and confetti everywhere. It was really the most enthusiastic show at a sporting event that I have ever seen, they did not stop singing or dancing for the entire game! The opposing team scored a goal within the first 2 minutes but this did not put a damper on the River fans and they tied up the score mid-game. The fans continued cheering and in the 93rd minute of the game River scored a penalty goal to win the game. The celebrations were unreal, they continuted for a solid hour after the game was over - security is so tight as these games because of riots that after the game is over, the opposing side is let out first and all the home-team fans have to wait inside so the opponents can safely get out of the stadium. The opposing team section is even fully fenced in and lined with barbed wire and guards in full riot gear to protect them, so crazy. My first live futbol game is one that I will never forget, the Argentine´s are so passionate about their futbol!
Hari and I also decided to take the local ferry over to Uruguay for 2 days. Being less than 2 hours away we figured we had to go check it out, so we got tickets on the Buquebus ferry and made our way to Montevideo, the capital city of Uruguay. The new part of the town was nothing special, lined with shops and very crowded, but the colonial part of the city is quite beautiful and much more quiet. There are tons of antique shops, and one in particular was very special to both of us - Hari had given me a beautiful coconut ring engagement ring in Indonesia that I love, but his mom and sister busted on him a bit for not getting me a ¨real¨ ring. I told him that I didn´t mind either way and didn´t need to get anything big or fancy. We were just walking by one antique store and one caught my eye - it was perfect, not too big and very unique, definitely more my style than the typical large diamond engagement ring. We said we´d think about it and the next day Hari bought me the ring, I absolutely love it. The streets of Montevideo are lined with artists selling hand-made jewelery and antiques, it is very quaint and quiet. During our stay we also had the best steak dinner, even better than anything we had in Buenos Aires (and also a bit cheaper). We only had 2 days in Montevideo, but it was a wonderful time and I would highly recommend heading over to Uruguay if you are already in BA and have a few extra days.

Back in BA we started discussing where we would go next and what other cities we wanted to see while in Argentina. We both definitely wanted to see Mendoza, but Hari had also been dying to do some trekking in Patagonia for years. I also love trekking, so we booked a flight to El Calafate in southern Argentina near the border of Chile where we would do a 5-day trek of Torres del Paine.

A dingo ate my baby

I arrived in Harvey Bay before we set off for Fraser Island and kept my fingers crossed for good weather. Because of Cyclone Hamish, each morning I woke up praying for nice weather. I knew that Fraser Island had been shut down for four days because of the damage the Cyclone did and I hoped the weather would hold so I could enjoy this little spot of paradise. Fraser Island is a national park that requires people to drive 4 wheel jeeps in order to get around the dirt paths, beach, and roads around the island. Because of the storm the roads were a lot more dangerous and many of them were closed down with detours everywhere.
For the trip there were three groups of 8 people, who were all randomly assigned to jeeps. I was with my friend Marja from Holland and we happened to get paired up with hellish group, by that I mean 6, very sheltered 18 year old girls from London on their GAP year, reuniting on this trip for the first time after 5 months of traveling. There was lots of screaming, gossip, and general excitement between the six of them over things that Marja and I had no clue about. I felt like the first day in the jeep was spent with Marja and me trying to hear each other over all the screaming in the car. We had one guy in our group, Patrick from Ireland (go figure), who was very easy going and he took the reins on driving the huge jeep for the three day trip. Luckily the other two cars with us were filled with people that we got along a lot better and had more in common with making the overall trip a blast. The deal with Fraser Island is you get a jeep, buy all the food and alcohol you will need for three days, tents and all camping equipment. Our group had a designated campsite for the two nights we were there and a map of the island showing us where we could go and what the tides would be like during our three days on the island. Coolest part is that roads really meant we were driving on the actual beach and when the tides were high there was no beach for us to drive on. Driving on the beach with nothing but paradise around us was pretty damn cool. Driving on the dirt roads were crazy because of all the rain we were on bumpy roads that weren´t regularly used and there would be times we would all just hold onto the bars in the jeep as we went barreling down a dirt road. There were times we were all screaming just like Indian Jones in that Disneyland ride (ok it was not that dangerous).
One thing we did have to watch out for were the dingos which were all over the island. All of our food had to be locked up in our jeep at night and all of the trash cans had lids that locked on them. Those dingos are very clever and are always lingering around looking for food. One night we left an empty cooler out and locked, in the morning we found that a dingo had managed to get the lock open and inside the cooler. Along with the dingos there were other amazing creatures on the Island from enormous geckos, crazy red colored birds, huge horneytoed frogs, to terrible annoying large beetle bitting things. Only in Australia do many of these creatures exist.
We explored the nearby lakes, finding a lake filled with little turtles and surrounded by a jungle trek (and I soon found out hungry mosquito's). We spent one day at Indian Head rock, a beautiful piece of beach, and the nearby champagne pools. When the waves swept into the pools it bubbled just like champagne. It was a blast. There was also a ship wreck on the beach from a huge cruise liner that was sunk nearby and washed onto the beach. McKensey Lake is also a big attraction of the island. Besides our last day, we hardly saw anyone else on the island outside of our group which made it like our little island sanctuary. At nights we would cook our dinner, either BBQ or pasta, play drinking games and then retreat to the beach to watch the stars and hang out late into the night.

It clearly was a very unique experience and I became close to several of the people on the trip. We all went off to Brisbine together to celebrate St. Patricks Day before I left Australia for New Zealand.

Great Barrier Reef

After an awesome time in Daintree, Hari and I headed to Cairns where we would book some diving in the famous Great Barrier Reef. We spent a few days in Cairnes to hang out and find a good dive shop to book our trip. Cairns itself is a very backpacker friendly town, the main drag is lined with hostels/hotels, surf and dive shops, and restaurants. While the town is on the water, there is no beach but instead a massively long boardwalk where everyone hangs out, jogs, and rides bicycles (I was really psyched to get in some runs along the water, I had been missing running as part of my daily routine but was trying to get it back in my schedule). There is a huge public swimming pool area along one section of the boardwalk that was always bustling - it had fountains where little kids splashed around and tons of people sun bathing along the faux-shoreline. It was a cool place to walk around, but we didn't spend too much time near the pool, as we were on a diving mission.


We were a bit nervous when we first arrived because we weren't sure how the cyclone would affect diving conditions, but luckily the dive shops we spoke to said within a few days visibility should clear up so we booked a 3 day/2 night trip to depart a few days later. In the meantime, we parked in front of the TV/DVD at our guesthouse and very excitedly caught up on several episodes of Lost from the new season, as Hari's mom sent us a DVD of all the episodes in Australia.


Our departure day finally came and we anxiously headed to the dive shop to be on our way. We could not wait to get back in the water and to see the Reef after hearing so much about it. We got all of our equipment together and hopped on board the speedboat that would take us to the live-aboard a few hours offshore. Thankfully, unlike the bumpy speedboat ride in the Similan Islands where many people got seasick, this ride was a lot smoother.


We got to our live aboard, met our fellow dive team, and were briefed by the head DM, Vincent, on the diving protocol in Australia. It was quite different than diving in Thailand and Indonesia - for starters, all certified divers went under without a DM unless you opted to pay an additional AUD 15/dive to have a DM show you around the sites. While Hari and I both successfully completed our underwater navigation tests during our Advanced Open Water dive courses, we had never navigated dive sites ourselves without a DM guiding us...doing it alone would definitely be a new learning experience! Also, in Thailand there are really no regulations as far as air consumption is concerned but in Australia every diver legally has to surface with at least 50 bars of air remaining in their tanks - this is a bit of a conservative regulation, as in Thailand we would start our 3 minute safety stops when we hit 40 or 50 bars, often leading us to surface with only 10-20 bars. What this regulation means in essence is shorter dives, but I guess it's always best to be safe. Another difference with the GBR is that we had to wear stinger suits to protect us from the deadly marine stingers that were brought in by the currents instead of wet suits - because the water was so warm (about 28-29 degrees Celcius), we would not need wetsuits to keep us warm which was a huge plus for me since I tend to get cold underwater very easily.


After getting briefed we got into our gear and were ready to hit the water. For our first dive it was required that we had a DM take us down just to make sure that we were really qualified and safe to be navigating a site by ourselves. Unfortunately, because we were with some beginner divers, our dive time was a mere 30 minutes. At least we passed the test to dive by ourselves and would be able to stay down longer in our future dives.



It was great to be underwater again, but to be completely honest, Hari and I were both a little disappointed with the quality of the Reef. I know that we were only in a small section of the southern part of the Reef, but I was very surprised as to how damaged and bleached most of the coral was. Maybe my expectations were a bit unrealistic, I imagined that the acquatic life and coral would be 100x better than that of Thailand, but unfortunately it was not. Due to rising water temperatures and the holes in the ozone layer above the reef, much of the coral is bleached white and lacks the brilliant colors that we saw throughout both eastern and western Thailand. It is a shame that the changing environment keeps damaging the coral more and more every year, I just hope that the damage slows, otherwise the entire reef will be wiped out.




But don´t get me wrong, despite my expectations being a bit too high the acquatic life was still really great - on every dive we saw tons of Nemos, humbugs (adorable black and white striped fish that are about the size of your pinky nail, some of my favorites), rainbowfish, parrotfish, etc. We did get ¨lost¨ a few times underwater, but overall we made our way around pretty successfully. One thing that was really cool is that we would station at one dive site in the morning and get 2-3 dives at each site, which gave us the opportunity to learn our way around and make sure that we saw all parts of the reef instead of having to rush around. One of the dive sites had a massive drop off that was actually pretty scary - we were under about 20 meters or so when all of a sudden there was a wall that dropped off over 1000 meters. Looking down was really intimidating, I kept my distance from the wall...even though there was really no chance of falling into the abyss, I still wanted to be cautious!




Overall we had a great time on our dive trip. Even though we were a little let down on the conditions of the Reef, we still did get in some great dives and saw some great marine life. I would like to return to the more northern section of the Reef in the future, perhaps the conditions in other sections are in better condition...either way, it is up to us to be environmentally responsible so the damage to the Reef does not continue. And that´s my little ¨go green¨ cheer for the blog, do your part and protect our planet!